Many Glacier, Goat Lick and Other Wildlife Viewing Areas in Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park is known for its scenic views and Yellowstone National Park for its wildlife, but Glacier probably should be known for both.

Black Bear near Lake McDonald

This last week, four of us traveled to the Many Glacier entrance on the northeast side of Glacier.  Over the course of two days of hiking and one night of camping we saw five moose, ten bighorn sheep, two mountain goats and one elk!  Some were spotted through binoculars, but three of the moose were visible across the river from our campsite in the Swift Current campground!  All that to say, Glacier has plenty of wildlife viewing opportunities!

Best Viewing Areas
Many Glacier is the best entrance for general wildlife viewing.  Every animal you can see in Glacier can be seen here and sometimes from the Many Glacier Lodge itself.
Goat Lick is the most reliable option for seeing Mountain Goats.  It is a marked pull-off along Highway 2 on the south end of Glacier.  The minerals on the hillside are just what the goats are craving and they almost never leave during the summer.

Bighorn Sheep in Logan Pass parking lot

Logan Pass is a great place for viewing Bighorn Sheep and Mountain Goats.  You can often see both without getting out of your car!



Tips for Viewing
Grizzly Bears are often higher up during June and then slowly make their way down in elevation as the berries ripen in July.  Scan high meadows and snow fields in June and lower ones in July, August and September.  Be very careful in thick brush, especially in August and September!

Moose on Cut Bank Creek

Moose are all about the low meadows and ponds.  If you can get up high, scan areas that have lots of water and brush around them.  Be careful though, moose are statistically more dangerous than bears.
Bighorn Sheep and Mountain Goats both love to hang out up high.  You can scan for them from below and they are often easiest to pick out when they are running across snow fields.
General Tips- if you can, get a pair of binoculars before you go into Glacier, its well be worth it.  Whether you're driving or hiking, get to an area where you can see lots of open hillsides, meadows and snowfields with brush in between each section.  If you can get there in early morning or late evening.  You will see more wildlife at those times.  Scan the meadows, hillsides and snowfields with your naked eye, or with binoculars until you see movement.  The more area you have to scan the better your odds.  Once you see something you can zero in with your binoculars.  Patience is key.  Something is almost certainly out there, you just have to be willing to wait until it comes to a place you can see it.

Hiking in the Two Medicine Glacier National Park

You've looked forward to your Montana vacation for months.  You're finally at the entrance to Glacier National Park and to your dismay you find out you can't actually access Logan Pass and all the hikes in the central part of Glacier!?!  What are you supposed to do now?  Twiddle your thumbs in your Kalispell hotel room?

Rest assured, you're not the first person to be disappointed by the late opening of Going-to-the-Sun Road.  But this blog is not about problems, its about solutions.  Its time for an off-the-beaten-path approach!

Twin Falls

The Two Medicine trailhead is just over 2 hours from Kalispell.  It is the least traveled paved-entrance to Glacier National Park, but not for lack of great scenic hikes.  Here are three hikes and brief descriptions of them (all mileages include round-trip).

Running Eagle Falls- .6 miles.  Stunning waterfall.  Trail head is just after the main entrance.  A hike/walk everyone can do!

Upper Two Medicine Lake

Upper Two Medicine Lake- 2.3 miles if you use ferry or 9.6 without ferry.  Main trail is relatively flat and travels around the north side of Middle Two Medicine Lake.  Stunning views on both sides and wildlife sightings on the north side of the trail.  At the end of the lake the trail merges with the trail from the boat dock (where you'd come from if you take the ferry).  It climbs a little on the way to Upper Two Medicine Lake, but the grade is fairly shallow.  You can also do a 100 yard side trip to Twin Falls, my personal favorite waterfall in Glacier!  The whole time you'll be able to see the sweeping glacial valleys and the gorgeous red/purple rock in the upper strata.  This hike is great as it gives you options for the whole family (short or long hike with the help of the ferry).

Bighorn Sheep near Scenic Point

Scenic Point- 7.9 Miles. This hike climbs 2300 ft but the views are worth it.  Switchbacks along a shale-like slope for most of the hike.  A short section that is pretty steep and then a flat walk across the top to where the views are best.  It is a great place for 360 views of the plains and Glacier at the same time.  Bighorn Sheep are frequently on the trail or up higher.  This hike can also be done as a loop back to East Glacier.

Other Worthwhile Hikes

There are several other hikes that are more difficult (longer and steeper) but equally rewarding in or near the Two Medicine entrance including: Dawson Pass, Firebrand Pass and Pitamakan/Dawson.  See hike734.com for more details!

More than Hiking

In addition to the hiking, you can drive over Looking Glass Pass just north of East Glacier for spectacular views (probably the least traveled scenic drive in Glacier Country).  The Two Medicine campground is picturesque with pick-nick spots along the river.  Serranos serves some of the best Mexican food in Glacier Country and is located in East Glacier.  If it is raining or you just need a relaxing afternoon, try the "Big Tree" Lodge in East Glacier for a relaxing afternoon of listening to live music near the fireplace.  

All these options and it will take you  less time to get there than if you went to Logan Pass?! Yes!  Two Medicine is where its at if Logan Pass is still closed!

Written by Matt Harrington- Marketing Specialist at the BestWestern Plus Flathead Lake Inn and Suites

Going-to-the-Sun Congestion and How to Deal with It

“Really!?!  That’s the third shuttle!”

The Highline Trail- one of the most congested hikes in Glacier

We were all frustrated as we watched yet another shuttle full of hikers pull out and head up toward Logan Pass.  We had parked at “the Loop” in hopes of getting a shuttle to the top of Logan Pass so we could hike the famed Highline Trail back down to our car.  Many of us had waited 45 minutes and seen three full shuttles go by.  Our small group of three and another group of two had a time crunch in the afternoon so without wasting more time we set off to hike the Highline Trail in reverse.  We found out later, the next shuttle arrived within ten minutes of our departure with several open seats. But by then we were long gone, enjoying the scenery, making record time and getting a great work-out while doing it.  We made it to Logan Pass, shuttled back down to our cars and arrived back to town in time to see our new niece. 

The "clean-up crew" before all the cars get to Logan Pass parking lot

A record 2.34 Million people visited Glacier National Park last year!  While that may be good news for area businesses that cater to tourists, those of us who want to travel on the famed Going-to-the-Sun scenic highway may find the roadway a little crowded.  The road is becoming so crowded that Park officails recently asked for public comment on five different proposals designed to lower congestion.  Several of the proposals include provisions for expansion of the shuttlesystem and one shuts it down entirely.  A couple of the proposals implement a reservation system for Going-to-the-Sun Highway during July and August.  Two of the proposals also include a provision for bike only days.  Whichever one they choose, it will likely look very different in a couple years, but none of these changes will take place until 2017.

So what does all this congestion mean for you, coming to Glacier this summer?  Well, you essentially have 4 choices: park shuttles, personal vehicle, cycling or the Red Bus Tour. 

In spite of the wait time sometimes involved, park shuttles are your most reliable option if you want to hike for a few hours.  This is because once you’re on the shuttle; you don’t have to look for parking.  If you take your personal vehicle and can’t find parking you don’t have the option of circling around to vulture-park because the road is too narrow to turn around! 

Siyeh Bend Pull-off early in the day

The best part about driving your personal vehicle is that you can actually stop and take pictures if (and that’s a big if) there’s an open pull-out.  You also have the option of driving through Logan Pass (meaning you don’t have to come back the way you came).  Besides the uncertain parking situation, another downside is that the driver usually doesn’t enjoy the scenery because the narrow, congested, high-consequence road demands most of his attention. 

Until they have bike only days, your best bet cycling is in the early and late hours of daylight (I have friends who bike up under the light of the full moon).  I have never biked on the road during heavy traffic, but I pray for bikers that do.

The Red Bus Tour (and by bus I mean four rows of seating) is probably the best sight-seeing option.  The drivers are informed, engaging and even funny.  There aren’t quite as many photo opportunities as if you drive yourself, but if the bus is stopped(as it often is due to traffic and construction)  you can stand up and take a picture because the roof is retracted (weather permitting). 

Written by Matt Harrington- Marketing Specialist at the BestWestern Plus Flathead Lake Inn and Suites

Spring Hikes in Glacier

When hiking in Montana in the spring, you never really know what to expect.  You might have great trail for three miles, then mud, then ice, then six inches of snow and then back to great trail.  The weather could be equally erratic: rainy, sunny and snowy all in the same day.  But despite the obstacles, the long winter and the recent sunny days are an irresistible lure for hikers to return to the mountains.  What follows are three hikes (one may require snow shoes) that can be done in either early spring or late spring.

Apgar Lookout:

This is one of the best accessible hike-with-a-view in early spring and it is a stunner.  After going through the main West Glacier entrance, you drive about half a mile and turn left on the road marked for Apgar Lookout.  The road ends in a parking lot at the trail head.  The hike starts out in trees and then goes through a burnt area with a couple pretty long switchbacks, it then winds around the front of the mountain to the lookout and a spectacular view of Lake McDonald and the mountains that climb up behind it to Logan Pass.  While the lookout is obviously not open in the spring, it makes for a great spot to eat lunch from and take in the amazing views.  My wife and I went up in late February and snow shoes were necessary for about half the hike.  That being said, the trail receives a lot of sun so by late March it should be hike-able the entire distance.  Round trip the hike is 7.1 miles.

Bowman Lake:

Yes, you can just drive here in the summer, but before the dirt road leading to Bowman Lake (from Polebridge) is open, Bowman Lake is a worthwhile hike.  The hike up has a mild elevation gain and is in the trees for about two thirds of the time.  It opens up at the campground and the view of Bowman is surprisingly stunning.  It is a long lake, stretching back with pristine mountains behind and around it.  My wife and I hiked there in early March and it was still frozen over.  I think that is the largest frozen body of water I have ever seen.   Snow shoes were not necessary, although Yak Tracks would have been advisable. 

Trout Lake:

This hike is definitely a later spring hike but is worth your time before Going-to-the-Sun is open.  Simply drive to the end of Lake McDonald and take the first road to your left at the end of the lake.  Go over the bridge along the dirt road which will eventually end at the trailhead.  The hike has some substantial elevation gain, but the reward is seeing down a large glacial valley that few have the opportunity to see.  The lake itself is crystal clear.  The first time I went with my wife, we saw lunes cruise under-water after small trout and it was fascinating to watch.  Sometimes avalanches hit the trail pretty hard during the winter, so you might have to find the trail again after an avalanche chute.  The round trip mileage is less than 8 miles but the elevation gain makes it a demanding hike.  Alternatively, you can hike to the top of the first ridge and have a great view of Lake McDonald and then return to your vehicle.

Final thoughts:

Avalanche Lake is another late spring hike, but I already mentioned it in another blog.  Also, keep in mind the uncertainty of trail conditions and changing weather.  Bring yak tracks and warm and water-proof clothes.

Top 10 Worst Huckleberry Products

If you’ve ever been anywhere close to Glacier National Park during the summer, you know that Glacier Country is Huckleberry Country.  Even if you come in the winter you’ll notice a plethora of signs offering everything from huckleberry jam to huckleberry wine.  While there are many great huckleberry products, for this blog we thought we’d list the 10 weirdest huckleberry products.  Some exist and some are only ideas.  Either way, if you’ve been looking for a huckleberry product that could really stick out from the crowded field, here are some ideas you might want to try!

1.       Huckleberry toilet paper- Freshen up the outhouse with scented toilet tissue!

2.       Huckleberry scented bear spray- Spray something that smells natural to the bear, just be sure the unnatural stuff is powerful enough to stop him.

3.       Huckleberry cologne/perfume- The opposite sex will be after you like bears in a huckleberry patch!

4.       Huckleberry deodorant- Ahh yes!  Nothing overcomes BO like huckleberries!

5.       Huckleberry toothpaste, mouth wash or floss- Your next dental cleaning appointment will be a pleasure for your dentist!

6.       Huckleberry fog machine- Watch your favorite sports team or performer come out in a mysterious cloud of purple huckleberry scented fog!

7.       Huckleberry pizza- They already make pineapple, why not huckleberry?!?

8.       Huckleberry burritos- Salty, spice and sweet (huckleberry) all at once?  I think Yes!

9.       Huckleberry flavored tobacco products- Already exist, but wouldn’t you rather have this kind of second hand smoke than the alternative?

10.   Huckleberry scented diapers- Your least favorite task just got a little sweeter and your child is well on his/her way to becoming a huckleberry kid!

Classic Glacier Hikes

As I write this, the temperature is below freezing and the cloud cover overhead is thick.  It seems like summer will never come.  Hiking in Glacier may be the last thing on your mind, but it might be just what you need to get you through the stalemate between spring and winter that we are now in.  Picture yourself in a high mountain meadow, full of blooming wild flowers and bright green grass.  The sky is a perfect baby blue and the temperature is hovering at 75 degrees.    The spectacular glacial valleys stretch in every direction and snow fields end in glacial blue lakes over each rise.  This is Montana at its finest!

Glacier has 734 miles of trail so you have a lot of potential hikes to choose from.   While there are many lesser known hikes that are worth-while, for this edition of our blog we will focus on three classic glacier hikes.  The two mid-range hikes (5-mile round trip) of Hidden Lake and Avalanche lake along with the longer Garden Wall hike are well traveled but with good reason.  If you are planning on doing any of these quintessential Glacier hikes, here’s what you should know.

Highline trail is one of the best full-day hikes there is in Glacier.  It is a loop, so you leave your car at “the bend”, take a free shuttle to Logan Pass and then hike the loop back to your car.  The first leg from Logan Pass to Granite Peak Chalet  takes you along a steep, spectacularly green hillside with a rock face on the up-hill side.  The views down the glacier valleys during the entire hike are amazing and you will often see mountain goats.  You can also add a quick side trip and see Grinnell Glacier from the top.  Things to be aware of: As with all hikes in Glacier, the earlier you can get there the better.  Shuttles coming up Going-to-the-Sun Road often are full from the stops below by the time they get to the bend, so if you get there at mid-morning you will likely have to wait for a shuttle to Logan Pass.  Start with enough water for the whole trip.  Even though there is a chalet about 7 miles from the trailhead, everything is packed in by horse, so water is expensive and there are few streams along the way.  Grizzly Bears are frequently encountered on this trail despite its popularity so be sure to carry bear spray.

Hidden Lake is a great hike and has spectacular views for the entire hike.  It is an easier hike with minimal elevation gain.  Much of the trail is on a board walk with wild flowers and green fields on both sides.  It is the type of trail where you can turn back at any point and still enjoy 360 scenic views.  If your are not sure how far you can hike, this is a good option.  The lake itself is a deep glacial blue and worth the five mile round trip.  You will often see mountain goats and bighorn sheep near the trail or even near the visitor’s center where it begins.   Things to be aware of:  If you come between 10AM and 5PM, the parking lot at Logan Pass can fill up quickly and the trail to hidden lake can become very crowded (note that just because the parking lot says “full” does not mean it is actually full).

Avalanche Lake is the most popular hike that is not connected to Logan Pass.  It is about 5 miles round trip with a mild up-hill grade.  The first part of the hike winds through a very wet almost rain-forest like climate.  The lake itself has a great view and you can see the various avalanche chutes that give the lake its name.  The trail goes around it and there are several perfect spots for a picnic.   The trailhead for Avalanche Lake is accessible long before most trailheads in Glacier are, which makes it ideal for a spring, early summer or late fall hike.  Things to be aware of:  Bears frequent this trail, especially Black Bears so be aware.  In June, before Logan Pass opens, this hike is extremely popular, so if you can avoid hiking in the middle of the day, it will feel more like a hike and less like a walk in Central Park. 

As you begin to plan your trip Jake Bramante’s website www.hike734.com has some excellent resources for potential hikes.  Jake spent a summer hiking and documenting all 734 miles of trail in Glacier and created several resources using his knowledge.  We are not paid to endorse his products, but I mention them because they are comprehensive and well worth your time and money.  

Dog Sledding- A True Montana Experience!

We seemed to fly down the powdery white trail, straight onto the ice of Swan Lake.  You could feel a stiff breeze as the wind grew teeth in the open space of the lake.  One dog gave out a bark, but most were too busy pulling and panting to give a reply.  Inuit sled dogs have been bred for centuries to pull their human masters across great expanses of frozen tundra. This little traverse around the campground was all in a day’s work for these incredible animal athletes.  At an average height of 23 inches and a weight of 60lbs, these dogs don't look like the powerhouses that you might imagine pulling sleds, but they are!

Before moving to Kalispell 2 ½ years ago, I thought dog sledding was something Alaskans did in the Iditarod.  I thought Montana didn’t have enough consistent snow, but to the few serious dog sledders in Northwest Montana, it seems not to matter.  I am involved with the Big Brother’s Big Sisters program in Kalispell, and Mark Schurke of the Basecamp Outfitters was nice enough to offer a day of dog sledding for those involved in the program.  About 20 of us showed up at his house, were introduced to the dogs and watched as he loaded the dogs into his truck.  We drove further South from his home near Bigfork, along Swan Lake where the winter storms keep snow on the ground much later than the rest of the Flathead Valley.  Everyone got a turn or two with the dogs as they ran a loop near the campground and along Swan Lake.   I think what surprised me most was the fact that Mark put two of us on the sled and just let us go.  He skied along beside the sled and was there in case something went wrong, but we were at the controls.  He even let us give signals and commands to the dogs.  The hands-on approach surprised me at first but it made the experience much more authentic and fun! 

Since that time, a few of our guests have also gone out on guided dog sledding tours with Mark and every one of them has had a terrific experience.  It’s one of those things you might not think of when planning your trip to Montana, but it’s one of those experiences you’ll never regret doing.  The thrill of watching eight elite animal athletes propel your sled through the snow with you at the controls is truly remarkable.  There’s actually a community of dog sledders within Montana and every year they conduct a race called Race to the Sky in mid February.

Unlike some Montana winter sports, dog sledding season lasts almost half the year, starting in the fall, as soon as there is snow on the high mountains and continues into the late Spring.  Ice skating, cross country skiing and resort skiing are all more weather dependent and typically end in march, but dog sledding can be done into June.  Once in the high mountains you get to see views that few people get to see: the backcountry as a winter wonderland.  This isn’t a view you can drive to, this is a view best experienced the way it has been for thousands of years, with eight huffing dogs who are ecstatic to be there with you!

You can check out Mark's company, Base Camp Bigfork and if you stay with us, you can get a 10% discount during the month's of April and May!